PDF SEWING PATTERN | 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt | Folkwear
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PDF SEWING PATTERN | 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt | Folkwear
Skill Level: Advanced
Sizes: Women's XS–3XL
Language: English Only
The 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt sewing pattern by Folkwear recreates an elegant matched ensemble dating from around 1907, when women's clothing was becoming increasingly influenced by tailored menswear.
The pattern includes a beautifully detailed shirtwaist blouse and seven-gore skirt in two lengths, which can be worn together as an Edwardian-inspired outfit or sewn separately for a more contemporary wardrobe.
The Shirtwaist features an elegant princess line at the back accented by two wide tucks extending over the shoulders to the front. Choose between a pretty scalloped front opening or a simpler straight front placket. Gathers at the back waist soften the fitted silhouette, while moderately full set-in sleeves gather into buttoned cuffs.
The sweeping seven-gore skirt features an inverted back pleat below the centre-back closure for added fullness and movement. The skirt can be made in a short or long length, with optional bias or straight-grain trim at the hem.
Bias detailing can also be added to the Shirtwaist cuffs and front opening using the same or a contrasting fabric, or omitted for a simpler finish.
Pattern Features
- Shirtwaist blouse and seven-gore skirt
- Two skirt lengths: short and long
- Two Shirtwaist front options
- Scalloped or straight front opening
- Princess-line back
- Four wide shoulder and back tucks
- Gathered back waist
- Set-in sleeves with gathered cuffs
- Buttoned cuffs
- Inverted back skirt pleat
- Optional bias or straight-grain decorative detailing
- Optional hem trim
Suggested Fabrics
Shirtwaist & Skirt:
- Cotton broadcloth
- Cotton poplin
- Denim
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Silk
- Linen
- Light to medium-weight blends
Additional Skirt Options:
If using a contrasting checked or plaid fabric for the bias detailing, checks or plaids no larger than 3/8" / 1 cm are recommended.
Notions & Supplies
Shirtwaist:
- Thread
- Seven 1/2" / 13 mm buttons
- 1 3/4 yd / 1.6 m of 1/4" / 6 mm wide ribbon for waist tie
- Optional: 1/8 yd / 11.5 cm lightweight non-woven interfacing for collar
Skirt:
- Thread
- One 1/2" / 13 mm button
- Four snaps
- Optional: 1/8 yd / 11.5 cm lightweight non-woven interfacing for waistband
Optional Self-Fabric Waist Tie: Instead of ribbon, the instructions include an option to make a 1" × 54" / 2.5 × 137 cm self-fabric tie.
Size Chart
XS: Bust 30 1/2–31 1/2" / 78–80 cm | Waist 23–24" / 58–61 cm | Hip 32 1/2–33 1/2" / 83–86 cm
SM: Bust 32 1/2–34" / 83–87 cm | Waist 25–26 1/2" / 64–67 cm | Hip 34 1/2–36" / 88–92 cm
MD: Bust 36–38" / 92–97 cm | Waist 28–30" / 72–77 cm | Hip 38–40" / 97–102 cm
LG: Bust 40–42" / 102–107 cm | Waist 32–34" / 82–87 cm | Hip 42–44" / 107–112 cm
XL: Bust 44–46" / 112–117 cm | Waist 37–39" / 94–99 cm | Hip 46–48" / 117–122 cm
2XL: Bust 48–50" / 122–127 cm | Waist 42–44" / 107–112 cm | Hip 50–52" / 127–132 cm
3XL: Bust 52–54" / 132–137 cm | Waist 46–48" / 117–122 cm | Hip 54–56" / 137–142 cm
Finished Garment Measurements
Finished Bust:
XS: 40" / 102 cm | SM: 43" / 109 cm | MD: 47" / 119 cm | LG: 51" / 130 cm | XL: 55" / 140 cm | 2XL: 59" / 150 cm | 3XL: 63" / 160 cm
Finished Waist:
XS: 24" / 61 cm | SM: 27 1/2" / 67 cm | MD: 31 1/2" / 80 cm | LG: 35" / 89 cm | XL: 39" / 99 cm | 2XL: 44" / 112 cm | 3XL: 48" / 122 cm
Finished Hip:
XS: 34" / 86 cm | SM: 37" / 94 cm | MD: 41" / 104 cm | LG: 45" / 114 cm | XL: 49" / 124 cm | 2XL: 53" / 135 cm | 3XL: 57" / 145 cm
PDF Pattern Includes
- A0 copyshop pattern – 5 pages
- 36" copyshop pattern – 2 pages
- Print-at-home files – Shirtwaist: 30 pages | Skirt: 55 pages
- Projector files for the Shirtwaist and Skirt
- Layered pattern files by size
- Illustrated sewing instructions – 24 pages
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