PDF SEWING PATTERN | Hemlock Top & Dress | Capstone Pattern Co.
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PDF SEWING PATTERN | Hemlock Top & Dress | Capstone Pattern Co.
Skill Level: Confident Beginner
Sizes: US 0–30 (16 Sizes)
Garment Options: V-Neck Top or Belted Dress
Cup Options: C-Cup and D-Cup Drafting, Depending on Size
Language: English
Discover the Hemlock Top & Dress by Capstone Pattern Co., a beautifully versatile sewing pattern designed for effortless everyday dressing. Featuring a flattering V-neckline, relaxed drop sleeves and carefully considered details, Hemlock offers two timeless wardrobe essentials in one pattern.
Choose between a relaxed V-neck top that falls slightly below the waist or a softly draped dress with side-seam pockets, a sewn-in wrap belt and a centre-back pleat.
Designed for woven fabrics with medium to high drape, Hemlock is particularly beautiful in soft linen, Tencel/lyocell, viscose, rayon blends and silk. These fabrics create an elegant, flowing silhouette while maintaining the comfort and relaxed character of the design.
One of Hemlock's distinctive qualities is its thoughtfully finished construction. The pattern uses French seams, flat-felled seams, enclosed seams and clean edge finishes to create a garment that looks beautifully finished both inside and out.
The top is an excellent everyday piece that pairs effortlessly with high-waisted jeans, tailored trousers, skirts or shorts. The dress offers the same understated elegance, with a sewn-in belt that can be tied at the front or back to create different silhouettes.
With sizes US 0–30, overlapping C-cup and D-cup options, illustrated instructions and both A4/US Letter and A0 printing formats, Hemlock is a rewarding project for confident beginners looking to develop their sewing skills.
Pattern Features
- Women's top and dress PDF sewing pattern
- 16 US sizes: 0–30, in increments of two
- Two garment options included
- Flattering V-neckline
- Relaxed, comfortable silhouette
- Drop sleeves
- Front bust darts for shaping
- Beautifully enclosed seam finishes
- Designed for medium- to high-drape woven fabrics
- C-cup drafting for sizes 0–18
- D-cup drafting for sizes 14–30
- Both C-cup and D-cup options in sizes 14, 16 and 18
- Designed for a height range of approximately 165–170 cm (5'5"–5'7")
- Confident beginner-friendly construction
- Detailed illustrated sewing instructions in English
- Layered A4, US Letter and A0 PDF files
- Seam allowances included
Two Garment Options
Version 1 – Hemlock Top
The Hemlock Top is a relaxed, everyday blouse with a beautifully simple silhouette. Featuring a V-neckline, dropped sleeves and front darts for shaping, it combines the comfort of a casual top with the refined finish of a handmade woven garment.
Designed to fall slightly below the natural waistline, the top pairs particularly well with high-waisted jeans, linen trousers, wide-leg pants and skirts.
Its relaxed fit and softly draped construction make it a versatile choice for everyday wear, travel and warm-weather layering.
Hemlock Top Features
- Relaxed V-neck blouse
- Drop sleeves
- Front darts for gentle shaping
- Length designed to fall slightly below the waist
- Clean neckline finish
- Separate front and back hem facings
- Beautifully enclosed seams
- Comfortable everyday silhouette
Version 2 – Hemlock Dress
The Hemlock Dress takes the relaxed elegance of the top and transforms it into a versatile spring and summer dress.
It features the same flattering V-neckline, drop sleeves and front darts, with the addition of generous side-seam pockets, a sewn-in wrap belt and a centre-back pleat.
The pleat creates additional room and movement through the back, while the integrated wrap belt allows the waist to be defined without sacrificing comfort.
The dress is designed to fall slightly above the knee, although its final length will depend on the wearer's height and any adjustments made to the pattern.
Hemlock Dress Features
- Relaxed V-neck dress
- Drop sleeves
- Front bust darts
- Generous side-seam pockets
- Sewn-in wrap belt at the waist
- Belt can be tied at the front or back
- Centre-back pleat for additional movement
- Comfortable, relaxed fit
- Length intended to fall slightly above the knee
- Enclosed seams and polished interior finishing
Design Details
Flattering V-Neckline
Both versions feature a classic V-neckline that gives the design a clean, elegant appearance. A separate neckline band is used to create a beautifully finished edge.
Relaxed Drop Sleeves
The dropped sleeve construction creates a casual silhouette without the need for traditional set-in sleeves, making Hemlock comfortable and approachable to sew.
Front Bust Darts
Carefully positioned front darts provide subtle shaping while maintaining the relaxed fit of the garment.
Sewn-In Wrap Belt
The dress features a wrap belt integrated into the side seams. The belt can be tied in the front to emphasize the waist or at the back for a more relaxed front silhouette.
Unlike a separate removable belt, the attached design keeps the belt positioned at the waist.
Generous Side-Seam Pockets
The dress includes spacious pockets integrated into the side seams. The instructions explain how to construct the pockets with a clean French-seam finish.
Centre-Back Pleat
A centre-back pleat is included in the dress version, adding ease and comfortable movement without disrupting the clean silhouette.
Beautiful Interior Finishing
Hemlock is designed with an emphasis on neat, enclosed seam finishes. French seams, flat-felled seams and carefully finished hems help create a polished garment that looks attractive on both sides of the fabric.
Recommended Fabrics
The Hemlock Top & Dress is designed for woven fabrics with medium to high drape. Choose a fabric that falls softly and moves comfortably with the body.
Fabric Selection Tip: Very stiff or heavy fabrics may alter Hemlock's intended flowing silhouette. For the dress, a soft and fluid fabric will help the wrap belt and centre-back pleat fall beautifully.
Sewing Tip: If working with a slippery fabric such as silk or viscose, take extra care when cutting, pinning and pressing to maintain accurate seam allowances and smooth finishes.
Fabric Requirements – Hemlock Top
The following requirements are taken from the designer's original fabric chart and apply to the top variation.
Fabric 150 cm - Approximately 59" Wide
- US 0–6: 1.00 m (approximately 1.09 yd)
- US 8–20: 1.60 m (approximately 1.75 yd)
- US 22–30: 1.70 m (approximately 1.86 yd)
Fabric 115 cm - Approximately 45" Wide
- US 0–6: 1.40 m (approximately 1.53 yd)
- US 8–20: 1.60 m (approximately 1.75 yd)
- US 22–30: 1.80 m (approximately 1.97 yd)
Fabric Requirements – Hemlock Dress
The following quantities include the fabric required for the dress variation with its integrated wrap belt and pockets.
Fabric 150 cm - Approximately 59" Wide
- US 0–12: 2.70 m (approximately 2.95 yd)
- US 14–20: 3.00 m (approximately 3.28 yd)
- US 22–30: 3.50 m (approximately 3.83 yd)
Fabric 115 cm - Approximately 45" Wide
- US 0–12: 3.00 m (approximately 3.28 yd)
- US 14–18: 3.70 m (approximately 4.05 yd)
- US 20: 4.00 m (approximately 4.37 yd)
- US 22–30: 4.30 m (approximately 4.70 yd)
Important: Allow additional fabric for shrinkage, directional prints, pattern matching, fabric with a narrower usable width or any planned length adjustments.
Required Supplies & Notions
- Main Fabric: Quantity according to your selected size, garment variation and fabric width
- Fusible Interfacing: 0.10 m, approximately 4"
- Matching sewing thread
- Sewing machine with a needle appropriate for the selected woven fabric
- Pins or sewing clips
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Paper scissors
- Measuring tape and ruler
- Tailor's chalk or removable marking tool
- Iron and ironing board
Additional Notions: No zipper, buttons or separate belt hardware are specified for the Hemlock Top & Dress.
Interfacing: Used to stabilize the neckline as directed in the instructions.
Size Range & Fit
The Hemlock Top & Dress includes sixteen US sizes from 0 through 30.
The pattern is drafted for a reference height range of 165–170 cm (5'5"–5'7").
Both variations are designed with a relaxed fit and additional wearing ease through the bust, waist and hips.
Cup Size Options
- Sizes US 0–12: C-cup drafting
- Sizes US 14, 16 and 18: Both C-cup and D-cup versions available
- Sizes US 20–30: D-cup drafting
Selecting Your Cup Option: For sizes US 14, 16 and 18, use the 0–18 pattern file for the C-cup draft or the 14–30 pattern file for the D-cup draft.
Body Measurement Chart
The following measurements are in centimetres and represent the designer's original body size chart.
- US 0: Bust 81.3 cm | Waist 63.5 cm | Hips 88.9 cm
- US 2: Bust 83.8 cm | Waist 66 cm | Hips 91.4 cm
- US 4: Bust 86.4 cm | Waist 68.6 cm | Hips 94 cm
- US 6: Bust 88.9 cm | Waist 71.1 cm | Hips 96.5 cm
- US 8: Bust 91.4 cm | Waist 73.7 cm | Hips 99.1 cm
- US 10: Bust 95.3 cm | Waist 77.5 cm | Hips 102.9 cm
- US 12: Bust 99.1 cm | Waist 81.3 cm | Hips 106.7 cm
- US 14: Bust 104.1 cm (C-cup) / 106.7 cm (D-cup) | Waist 86.4 cm | Hips 111.8 cm
- US 16: Bust 109.2 cm (C-cup) / 111.8 cm (D-cup) | Waist 91.4 cm | Hips 116.8 cm
- US 18: Bust 114.3 cm (C-cup) / 116.8 cm (D-cup) | Waist 96.5 cm | Hips 121.9 cm
- US 20: Bust 121.9 cm | Waist 101.6 cm | Hips 127 cm
- US 22: Bust 127 cm | Waist 106.7 cm | Hips 132.1 cm
- US 24: Bust 132.1 cm | Waist 111.8 cm | Hips 137.2 cm
- US 26: Bust 137.2 cm | Waist 116.8 cm | Hips 142.2 cm
- US 28: Bust 142.2 cm | Waist 121.9 cm | Hips 147.3 cm
- US 30: Bust 147.3 cm | Waist 127 cm | Hips 152.4 cm
Fit Tip: The designer recommends choosing the size closest to your body measurements, with particular attention to the bust measurement. If your measurements fall between sizes, consult the finished garment measurements and consider the designer's guidance about sizing down.
Important: These are body measurements, not finished garment measurements. Separate finished measurement charts for the top and dress are included in the instructions.
What's Included in the PDF Download?
- Hemlock Top & Dress PDF Sewing Pattern by Capstone Pattern Co.
- 16 US Sizes: 0–30
- Version 1 – V-Neck Top
- Version 2 – Belted Dress with Pockets
- Print-at-Home PDF, Sizes US 0–18 – 50 Pages
- Print-at-Home PDF, Sizes US 14–30 – 62 Pages
- A0 Large-Format PDF, Sizes US 0–18 – 3 Pages
- A0 Large-Format PDF, Sizes US 14–30 – 3 Pages
- Illustrated English Instruction Booklet – 25 Pages
- C-Cup Drafting in Sizes US 0–18
- D-Cup Drafting in Sizes US 14–30
- Body Measurement Chart
- Finished Garment Measurement Charts
- Fabric Requirement Charts
- Cutting Layouts
- Neckband and Hem-Facing Pattern Pieces
- Dress Pocket Pattern Pieces
- Integrated Belt Pattern Pieces
- Step-by-Step Illustrated Sewing Instructions
- Selectable Size Layers
- Seam Allowances Included
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