PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Kiveton Jacket | Merchant & Mills | UNISEX
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PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Kiveton Jacket | Merchant & Mills | UNISEX
Skill Level: Advanced
Sizes: XS–3XL (7 Sizes)
Designer: Merchant & Mills
Special Features: Detachable Hood, Layered Hip Pockets & Contrast Shoulder Panels
Language: English
Create a timeless, practical outerwear piece with The Kiveton Jacket by Merchant & Mills, an advanced sewing pattern inspired by the traditional British donkey jacket worn by coal merchants.
Combining durable workwear heritage with thoughtful contemporary details, The Kiveton features a generous, structured silhouette, detachable hood, double-layered hip pockets, contrast shoulder panels and a button-front closure.
The design offers two construction options: a fully lined jacket for a beautifully finished interior, or an unlined version with carefully finished seam allowances. Both variations retain the distinctive workwear details that make this jacket so appealing.
One of The Kiveton's signature features is its optional contrasting fabric. The shoulder panels and base pockets can be cut in a different material, allowing you to combine wool coating with dry oilskin, denim with canvas, or different colours and textures for a distinctive finish.
The detachable hood adds versatility to the design. Its button attachment allows you to change the jacket's appearance and functionality depending on the weather or your personal style.
With sizes XS through 3XL, detailed illustrated instructions and multiple sewing techniques, The Kiveton is a rewarding project for experienced sewists looking to create a distinctive, long-lasting outerwear garment.
Pattern Features
- Traditional donkey jacket-inspired sewing pattern
- Seven sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL and 3XL
- Relaxed, generously proportioned outerwear silhouette
- Detachable hood with button attachment
- Double-layered hip pockets
- Optional contrast shoulder panels
- Optional contrasting base pockets
- Four-button front closure
- Structured collar
- Long sleeves
- Interior pocket detail
- Fully lined or unlined construction options
- Optional bias-bound seam finishing for the unlined version
- Designed for durable woven outerwear fabrics
- Suitable for wool, tweed, oilskin, dry oilskin, denim, cotton twill, canvas and corduroy
- Advanced sewing difficulty
- Detailed illustrated English instructions
- Layered A4 / US Letter and A0 PDF pattern files
- Seam allowances included
Design Details
Traditional Donkey Jacket Inspiration
The Kiveton draws inspiration from the practical work jackets traditionally worn by coal merchants. Its substantial silhouette, protective shoulder panels and functional pocket arrangement give the pattern a distinctive utilitarian character.
The contemporary interpretation makes an excellent everyday outerwear piece that pairs naturally with denim, trousers, boots and casual layered outfits.
Detachable Hood
The hood is constructed from separate side and back panels and includes its own lining and facing.
It attaches to the jacket using five small buttons and elastic cord loops, allowing it to be removed when a cleaner collar-focused silhouette is preferred.
The removable hood adds practical versatility without requiring you to choose permanently between a hooded coat and a collared jacket.
Double-Layered Hip Pockets
The Kiveton features a distinctive layered pocket design at the hips. Smaller outer pockets are stitched onto larger base pockets, creating an interesting double-pocket arrangement.
The base pockets may be cut from the main fabric or a contrasting material, making them a beautiful opportunity for colour blocking.
Contrast Shoulder Panels
Separate front and back shoulder panels create the signature upper-body contrast associated with traditional donkey jackets.
Choose dry oilskin, waxed cotton, leather or the main garment fabric for these pieces, depending on the appearance and construction you prefer.
Lined or Unlined Construction
The Kiveton includes instructions for creating either a fully lined jacket or an unlined version.
Lined Version: A separate jacket lining provides a clean interior and allows the main garment to be made from textured or heavier woven fabrics.
Unlined Version: The jacket can be sewn without a full body lining. Seam allowances are finished according to the instructions, and optional bias binding can be used for a decorative interior finish.
The unlined variation still requires a small amount of lining fabric for selected components, including the hood and pocket details.
Button-Front Closure
Four larger buttons close the front of the jacket, giving the design a classic workwear appearance.
Interior Pocket
An internal pocket adds another practical detail. Its construction and positioning differ slightly between the lined and unlined versions to accommodate the interior finish.
Styling & Fabric Ideas
- Classic Wool Workwear: Choose a beautiful wool coating or tweed with contrasting dry oilskin shoulder panels and pockets.
- Traditional Oilskin: Create a practical, heritage-inspired jacket in cotton oilskin or dry oilskin.
- Denim Utility Jacket: Use heavyweight non-stretch denim with canvas or oilskin contrasts.
- Corduroy Jacket: Select a substantial corduroy for a textured, vintage-inspired look.
- Cotton Canvas: Choose a durable woven canvas for a practical, structured garment.
- Monochromatic Version: Use the same fabric for the main body, shoulder panels and base pockets for a clean, understated interpretation.
- Contrasting Pockets: Highlight the distinctive layered pocket design with a different colour or material.
Recommended Fabrics
The designer recommends stable, non-stretch woven fabrics suitable for outerwear construction.
Contrast Fabric Recommendations
The optional shoulder panels and base pockets may be cut from:
- The same fabric as the main jacket
Lining Fabric Recommendations
- Lightweight cotton
- Cotton poplin
- Lightweight wool
- Suitable slippery lining fabrics
Fabric Selection Tip: The weight and handle of your chosen fabric will affect the overall structure and drape of the finished jacket. Select materials that are suitable for the multiple layers created at the pockets, collar and front closure.
Oilskin Note: Traditional oilskin and waxed fabrics often require special handling. The designer recommends avoiding pressing oilskin with an iron and instead using a blunt tool or your fingers to flatten seams.
Main Fabric Requirements
The following quantities are taken from the designer's original fabric requirement chart. Requirements depend on the size, fabric width and whether the shoulder panels and base pockets are cut from a separate contrast fabric.
For Fabric 140 cm - 55" Wide
Using Separate Contrast Fabric:
- XS–S: 2.70 m
- M–L: 2.80 m
- XL–2XL: 3.40 m
- 3XL: 3.40 m
Using Main Fabric for Shoulder Panels & Base Pockets:
- XS–S: 3.00 m
- M–L: 3.10 m
- XL–2XL: 3.70 m
- 3XL: 3.70 m
For Fabric 150 cm - 60" Wide
Using Separate Contrast Fabric:
- XS–S: 2.40 m
- M–L: 2.80 m
- XL–2XL: 3.10 m
- 3XL: 3.20 m
Using Main Fabric for Shoulder Panels & Base Pockets:
- XS–S: 2.50 m
- M–L: 3.00 m
- XL–2XL: 3.20 m
- 3XL: 3.50 m
Other Fabric Widths: The included instruction booklet also provides requirements for 110 cm and 120 cm wide fabrics.
Important: Consult the original cutting chart included with the pattern before purchasing fabric. Allow extra for shrinkage, print matching, fabric nap, adjustments and narrower usable widths.
Optional Contrast Fabric Requirements
These quantities apply when the shoulder panels and base pockets are made from a separate contrast fabric.
Contrast Fabric 140 cm - 55" Wide
- XS–S: 0.40 m
- M–L: 0.50 m
- XL–2XL: 0.60 m
- 3XL: 0.60 m
Contrast Fabric 150 cm - 60" Wide
- XS–S: 0.30 m
- M–L: 0.40 m
- XL–2XL: 0.60 m
- 3XL: 0.60 m
Note: If you are using the main jacket fabric for the shoulder panels and base pockets, use the larger main-fabric quantities shown above instead of purchasing a separate contrast fabric.
Lining Fabric Requirements
Fully Lined Version – Lining 140 cm - 55" Wide
- XS–S: 1.90 m
- M–L: 2.30 m
- XL–2XL: 2.60 m
- 3XL: 2.70 m
Fully Lined Version – Lining 150 cm - 60" Wide
- XS–S: 1.70 m
- M–L: 2.20 m
- XL–2XL: 2.40 m
- 3XL: 2.70 m
Unlined Version – Small Lining Components
For the unlined version, the designer specifies 0.40 m of lining fabric for all sizes XS–3XL, based on fabric widths between 110 cm and 150 cm.
This smaller quantity is used for selected components rather than a complete jacket lining.
Additional Note: The instructions include detailed fabric requirements for 110 cm and 120 cm widths.
Buttons, Interfacing & Additional Supplies
- Main Fabric: Quantity according to size, fabric width and contrast option
- Optional Contrast Fabric: For shoulder panels and base pockets
- Lining Fabric: Quantity according to lined or unlined construction
- Interfacing: 0.90 m / approximately 1 yd, not applicable for oilskin
- Front Buttons: 4 buttons, 20–22 mm in diameter
- Hood Buttons: 5 buttons, approximately 15 mm in diameter
- Elastic Cord: 30 cm for the detachable hood loops
- Optional Bias Binding: 4.90 m for the unlined jacket
- Matching sewing thread
- Sewing machine with a needle suitable for the selected fabric
- Buttonhole presser foot
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Paper scissors
- Pins or sewing clips suitable for the chosen fabric
- Measuring tape and ruler
- Tailor's chalk or suitable fabric marking tool
- Hand-sewing needle
- Iron and ironing board where appropriate for the fabric
Bias Binding: The 4.90 m quantity is optional and applies to the unlined version only.
Size Range & Fit
The Kiveton includes seven sizes from XS to 3XL.
The jacket has a roomy outerwear silhouette designed to accommodate layering. Use the designer's body measurement chart to select your size, and review the finished garment measurements to determine your preferred amount of ease.
Body Measurement Chart
The following measurements are in centimetres.
- XS: Bust 86 cm | Waist 69 cm | Hips 94 cm
- S: Bust 96 cm | Waist 79 cm | Hips 104 cm
- M: Bust 106 cm | Waist 89 cm | Hips 114 cm
- L: Bust 116 cm | Waist 99 cm | Hips 124 cm
- XL: Bust 126 cm | Waist 109 cm | Hips 134 cm
- 2XL: Bust 136 cm | Waist 119 cm | Hips 144 cm
- 3XL: Bust 146 cm | Waist 129 cm | Hips 154 cm
Finished Garment Measurements
The following measurements represent the completed jacket, not body measurements.
- XS: Finished Chest 109.2 cm | Centre Back Length 78.4 cm
- S: Finished Chest 119.2 cm | Centre Back Length 79.4 cm
- M: Finished Chest 129.2 cm | Centre Back Length 80.4 cm
- L: Finished Chest 139.2 cm | Centre Back Length 81.4 cm
- XL: Finished Chest 149.2 cm | Centre Back Length 82.4 cm
- 2XL: Finished Chest 159.2 cm | Centre Back Length 83.4 cm
- 3XL: Finished Chest 169.2 cm | Centre Back Length 84.4 cm
Fit Note: The finished hem circumference is the same as the finished chest circumference in the designer's measurement chart.
Sizing Tip: Consider the weight and thickness of the layers you intend to wear underneath the jacket when selecting your size.
What's Included in the PDF Download?
- The Kiveton Jacket PDF Sewing Pattern by Merchant & Mills
- Seven Sizes: XS–3XL
- A4 / US Letter Layered Print-at-Home PDF – 84 Pages
- A0 Layered Large-Format PDF – 6 Pages
- Illustrated English Sewing Instructions – 25 PDF Pages
- Lined and Unlined Jacket Construction Instructions
- Detachable Hood Pattern Pieces
- Hood Lining and Facing Pattern Pieces
- Main Jacket Front and Back Pattern Pieces
- Sleeve Pattern Pieces
- Collar and Facing Pattern Pieces
- Front and Back Contrast Shoulder Panel Pattern Pieces
- Layered Hip Pocket Pattern Pieces
- Interior Pocket Pattern Pieces
- Jacket Lining Pattern Pieces
- Body Size Chart
- Finished Garment Measurement Chart
- Detailed Fabric Requirement Chart
- Cutting Layouts
- Illustrated Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
- Selectable Size Layers
- Seam Allowances Included
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