PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Gloria Blouse | Juliana Martejevs | TRILINGUAL (EN/FR/DE) | A4 ONLY
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PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Gloria Blouse | Juliana Martejevs | TRILINGUAL (EN/FR/DE) | A4 ONLY
Skill Level: Beginner – Easy
Sizes: XS–XXXL (7 Sizes)
Variations: Cropped & Hip-Length
Languages: English, French & German Instructions
Estimated Sewing Time: Approximately 5 Hours
Watch the Juliana Martejevs Sewing Tutorials
***Available in A4 Format Only
Refresh your handmade wardrobe with The Gloria Blouse by Juliana Martejevs, a contemporary oversized short-sleeve shirt sewing pattern featuring a classic collar, button-front closure, generous patch pockets and two versatile length options.
Inspired by timeless shirting with a modern, relaxed twist, The Gloria Blouse combines a wide, straight-cut silhouette with short sleeves and a structured shirt collar. Its effortless proportions make it perfect for casual everyday outfits, warm-weather dressing and relaxed office wear.
Choose between a cropped version for a contemporary boxy look or a regular hip-length blouse for a classic, versatile shirt. Both variations are included in the same sewing pattern, allowing you to create different garments using your favourite woven fabrics.
The design features a full-length front button placket, a separate collar and collar stand, two oversized patch pockets, a centre-back box pleat and a double-layered back yoke. These thoughtful shirtmaking details bring structure and character to the oversized fit.
Designed for lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics with little or no stretch, Gloria is especially beautiful in cotton poplin, linen, cotton shirting or suitable textured woven fabrics. The designer's original sample uses a smocked fabric composed of 67% cotton, 32% polyester and 1% elastane, weighing approximately 126 gsm.
Wear Gloria buttoned with jeans, wide-leg trousers or skirts, or leave it open over a fitted tank top for a relaxed layering piece. The cropped version pairs beautifully with high-waisted bottoms, while the hip-length version works well for everyday and office styling.
Pattern Features
- Women's oversized short-sleeve blouse PDF sewing pattern
- Seven sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL
- Two included variations: cropped and hip-length
- Relaxed, straight-cut silhouette
- Classic shirt collar with separate collar stand
- Full-length front button placket
- Short sleeves with simple turned hems
- Two large front patch pockets
- Centre-back box pleat
- Separate double-layer back yoke
- Buttons or snap fasteners
- Suitable for woven fabrics with little or no stretch
- Ideal for cotton poplin, linen and suitable lightweight textured fabrics
- Beginner-friendly sewing level
- Illustrated sewing instructions in English, French and German
- Seam allowances included in the pattern
Two Length Variations
Version A – Cropped Blouse
The cropped version has a modern, boxy shape that works beautifully with high-waisted trousers, skirts, jeans and shorts. Its shorter length highlights the wide silhouette and gives this classic shirt design a contemporary appearance.
- Relaxed, cropped silhouette
- Short sleeves
- Classic collar and button-front closure
- Patch pockets
- Requires 1.95 m of fabric at 138 cm wide
- Requires 5 buttons or snap fasteners
Version B – Hip-Length Blouse
The hip-length variation offers a relaxed, classic shirt silhouette with additional length through the body. Wear it buttoned for a polished everyday look or open over a camisole or T-shirt.
- Regular hip-length silhouette
- Short sleeves
- Classic collar and button-front closure
- Patch pockets
- Requires 2.25 m of fabric at 138 cm wide
- Requires 6 buttons or snap fasteners
Design Tip: The front and back pattern pieces include marked cropped cutting lines, making it easy to choose your desired length before cutting your fabric.
Design Details
Oversized Silhouette:
The wide, straight-cut shape provides comfortable ease and a relaxed appearance. The blouse is designed to be worn loosely rather than fitted closely to the body.
Classic Shirt Collar:
A traditional two-piece collar with a separate collar stand gives the blouse a refined appearance while maintaining its contemporary oversized shape.
Button-Front Closure:
The centre-front opening features a folded button placket. Choose traditional buttons for timeless shirt styling or suitable snap fasteners for a modern alternative.
Short Sleeves:
The relaxed short sleeves create a comfortable silhouette suitable for warmer weather. Their simple hem finish avoids the added bulk of traditional cuffs.
Large Patch Pockets:
Two oversized front pockets add a modern utility-inspired detail. They can be made in matching fabric for a subtle finish or carefully positioned when using patterned textiles.
Centre-Back Box Pleat:
A box pleat beneath the back yoke adds volume and visual interest while allowing the blouse to hang comfortably.
Double-Layer Back Yoke:
The separate yoke provides a classic shirtmaking feature. Its construction allows the shoulder seams to be neatly enclosed for a clean interior finish.
Styling Ideas
- Modern Cropped Shirt: Sew the cropped version in cotton poplin and style with high-waisted wide-leg trousers.
- Natural Linen Blouse: Choose ivory, sand, olive or black linen for a timeless warm-weather piece.
- Textured Summer Shirt: Use lightweight seersucker or suitable smocked woven fabric to create additional surface interest.
- Relaxed Office Look: Make the hip-length version in crisp cotton shirting and pair it with tailored trousers.
- Casual Layering: Wear Gloria open over a tank top or fitted T-shirt.
- Statement Print: Choose a floral, stripe or check in a stable woven fabric for a distinctive handmade blouse.
Recommended Fabrics
Juliana Martejevs recommends lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics with little or no elastane. The fabric should provide enough stability to support the collar, button placket and pockets while allowing the relaxed body to hang comfortably.
Designer's Original Fabric: Smocked woven fabric containing 67% cotton, 32% polyester and 1% elastane, approximately 126 gsm.
Fabric Selection Tip: Select a smooth cotton poplin for a crisp shirt appearance, or linen for a softer, more casual finish. Choose fabrics with a stable woven structure that can support buttonholes and topstitching.
Pattern Matching Tip: Solid-coloured fabrics are ideal for beginners. Stripes, checks and other directional prints require extra attention when cutting the front panels, pockets and yoke.
Important: This pattern is drafted for woven fabric with little or no stretch. Highly elastic jersey and other knit fabrics are not recommended for the original construction.
Fabric Requirements
The following fabric quantities are specified by Juliana Martejevs for fabrics measuring at least 138 cm - approximately 54 3/8" wide.
Important: These quantities apply to all seven sizes according to the designer's material list. Choose your desired variation before purchasing and cutting your fabric.
Note: Additional fabric may be required for directional prints, pattern matching, fabric shrinkage, fabric nap, length adjustments or fabrics with a narrower usable width.
Buttons & Fastenings
Fastening Options: Traditional sew-on buttons with machine-sewn buttonholes, or suitable snap fasteners.
Note: The designer does not specify a fixed button diameter in the supplied materials list. Choose buttons appropriate for the fabric and the front placket.
Additional Supplies & Notions
- Buttons or Snap Fasteners: 5 for cropped or 6 for hip-length
- Matching all-purpose sewing thread
- Sewing machine with a suitable universal needle for the chosen fabric
- Appropriate installation tools if using snaps that require them
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Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or sewing clips
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Fabric marking pen or tailor's chalk
- Iron and ironing board
- Optional serger for finishing selected raw edges
- Buttonhole presser foot if using traditional buttons
- Paper scissors for the PDF pattern
Sewing Tip: A regular sewing machine can be used for the entire project. The designer demonstrates using zigzag stitching or overlocking for selected raw edges, along with French seams for the side and sleeve seams.
Size Range & Fit
The Gloria Blouse includes seven sizes from XS to XXXL. The design is intentionally wide and straight-cut, providing generous ease throughout the body.
The designer recommends choosing your size primarily according to your bust measurement while also consulting the waist and hip measurements.
Body Measurement Chart
Fit Tip: This chart provides body measurements, not finished garment dimensions. Gloria is designed as an oversized blouse, so expect a relaxed silhouette with additional ease.
Pattern Construction Overview
Step 1 – Prepare the Button Placket:
Fold and press the centre-front edges according to the pattern instructions. Stitch the folded edges to create neat button plackets.
Step 2 – Sew the Buttonholes:
Mark the buttonhole positions on the appropriate front panel, then stitch the buttonholes using a suitable presser foot and setting for your selected buttons.
Step 3 – Attach the Patch Pockets:
Fold and press the pocket openings and remaining edges. Place the pockets on the front panels using the markings and topstitch securely.
Step 4 – Create the Back Box Pleat:
Fold the centre-back markings towards one another to form the pleat. Secure the pleat with stitching.
Step 5 – Construct the Back Yoke:
Join the yoke pieces to the back, then incorporate the shoulder seams so that the seam allowances are enclosed neatly.
Step 6 – Attach the Sleeves:
Position the short sleeves in the armholes, matching the marked notches. Stitch and press the seams.
Step 7 – Sew the Side and Sleeve Seams:
Follow the designer's French-seam method to enclose the raw edges and produce a clean interior finish.
Step 8 – Assemble the Collar:
Sew the collar pieces together, trim and turn the corners, then assemble the collar stand and attach the finished collar to the neckline.
Step 9 – Finish the Hems:
Fold and press the sleeve and lower blouse hems, then topstitch according to the instructions.
Step 10 – Attach the Buttons:
Sew the buttons to the marked positions and carefully open the finished buttonholes.
What's Included in the PDF Pattern?
- Digital The Gloria Blouse Sewing Pattern by Juliana Martejevs
- Seven Sizes: XS–XXXL
- Two Length Options: Cropped & Hip-Length
- Oversized Short-Sleeve Shirt Pattern
- Front and Back Pattern Pieces with Cropped Cutting Lines
- Short Sleeve Pattern Pieces
- Double-Layer Back Yoke Pattern Pieces
- Classic Shirt Collar & Collar Stand Pattern Pieces
- Patch Pocket Pattern Piece
- A4 Print-at-Home PDF – 26 Pages
- US Letter Print-at-Home PDF – 26 Pages
- Illustrated Sewing E-Book – 28 PDF Pages, containing English, French and German instructions
- Fabric Requirements and Cutting Layout
- Body Measurement Chart
- Step-by-Step Illustrated Sewing Instructions
- Seam Allowances Included, with Exceptions Marked on the Pattern
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