PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Nelly Coat | Juliana Martejevs | TRILINGUAL (EN/FR/DE) | A4 ONLY
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PDF SEWING PATTERN | The Nelly Coat | Juliana Martejevs | TRILINGUAL (EN/FR/DE) | A4 ONLY
Skill Level: Beginner
Sizes: XS–XXXL (7 Sizes)
Languages: English, French & German Instructions
Estimated Project Time: Approximately 5 Hours
Construction: Hand Embroidery – No Sewing Machine Required
Youtube sew-along
***Available in A4 Format Only
Create a truly distinctive handmade outerwear piece with The Nelly Coat by Juliana Martejevs, an innovative no-sew coat PDF pattern that transforms beautiful wool fabric into a contemporary jacket using decorative hand embroidery instead of conventional machine stitching.
Designed for beginners and creative makers alike, The Nelly Coat proves that beautiful handmade clothing doesn't always require a sewing machine. Using a simple hand-embroidery technique, you can assemble a stylish, relaxed-fitting coat with visible decorative stitching along the seams, edges and pocket details.
The design features a relaxed silhouette, rounded collar, long sleeves, patch pockets with flaps and contrasting embroidered edges. Choose between a shorter jacket for casual everyday wear or a longer coat for additional coverage.
Its distinctive construction makes Nelly especially appealing for those who enjoy hand stitching, slow fashion and creative textile projects. Contrasting embroidery thread transforms the garment seams into an intentional design feature, creating a handcrafted appearance that is both modern and playful.
The Nelly Coat is also a wonderful opportunity to repurpose an existing wool blanket, provided it has suitable weight and stability and its cut edges do not unravel. This creates a distinctive blanket-coat look while giving an existing textile a new purpose.
Pattern Features
- Women's handmade wool coat PDF sewing pattern
- Seven sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL
- Two length variations: short and long
- No sewing machine required
- Assembled using decorative hand-embroidery stitches
- Relaxed, casual silhouette
- Long sleeves with embroidered edges
- Rounded collar
- Two large front patch pockets
- Decorative pocket flaps
- Contrasting embroidery along seams and edges
- Snap-fastener front closure
- Designed for medium-heavy to heavy non-fraying woven fabrics
- Ideal for suitable wool loden and boiled wool
- Opportunity to upcycle a non-fraying wool blanket
- Beginner-friendly project
- Illustrated instructions in English, French and German
- Seam allowances included in the pattern
Two Length Variations
Version A – Short Jacket
The shorter Nelly Coat creates a cropped, relaxed jacket that's perfect for layering over T-shirts, sweaters, dresses and high-waisted trousers. Its proportions give it a casual, contemporary appearance while highlighting the decorative embroidered edges.
- Short jacket silhouette
- Relaxed fit
- Long sleeves and rounded collar
- Front patch pockets with flaps
- Requires 1.65 m of fabric at 147 cm wide
- Requires 80 m of embroidery thread
- Requires 5 pairs of snap fasteners
Version B – Long Coat
The longer variation extends the garment for additional coverage and a more traditional outerwear silhouette. It retains the relaxed shape, decorative hand stitching, rounded collar and practical pocket details of the shorter design.
- Longer coat silhouette
- Relaxed fit
- Long sleeves and rounded collar
- Front patch pockets with flaps
- Requires 2.25 m of fabric at 147 cm wide
- Requires 88 m of embroidery thread
- Requires 7 pairs of snap fasteners
Pattern Detail: Both lengths are included in the same PDF pattern, with separate cutting markings and pocket placements for the short and long versions.
Design Details
Decorative Hand-Embroidered Seams
The defining feature of The Nelly Coat is its unusual construction. Instead of sewing the garment together by machine, the fabric pieces are joined using a simple decorative hand-embroidery technique. The visible stitches become part of the design.
Choose embroidery thread in a contrasting colour to emphasize the seams, or use a coordinating shade for a more subtle result.
Relaxed Fit
The coat is designed with a casual silhouette that provides comfort and room for layering. The straight, easy-to-wear shape works beautifully over a fitted T-shirt, lightweight sweater or other everyday clothing.
Rounded Collar
A rounded collar adds softness and character to the coat. Its perimeter is finished using the decorative hand-embroidery technique, emphasizing the shape of the neckline.
Patch Pockets with Flaps
Two generously sized front patch pockets provide a practical and distinctive design feature. The pocket edges and separate flaps are finished with hand embroidery, making the pockets an important decorative element.
Hand-Finished Sleeves
The full-length sleeves are joined to the body using the same embroidery technique as the garment seams. Their lower edges are also finished with decorative stitches.
Snap-Fastener Closure
The front of the coat closes with sew-on snap fasteners, allowing the clean front opening and embroidered trim to remain the visual focus.
Unfinished-Looking, Non-Fraying Edges
The pattern is specifically designed for fabric that can be cut without its edges unravelling. This allows the distinctive embroidered edge treatment without requiring conventional folded hems or seam finishes.
Recommended Fabrics
Fabric choice is particularly important for this pattern. Unlike a conventional sewn coat, The Nelly Coat uses exposed cut edges and hand-embroidered joins. The fabric must therefore remain stable without fraying.
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Wool Fabrics
- Upcycled Wool Blanket
Fabric Requirements
The following fabric quantities are specified by Juliana Martejevs for fabric measuring at least 147 cm - approximately 58" wide.
Important: The designer provides the same fabric requirement for sizes XS through XXXL for each length variation, based on fabric at least 147 cm wide.
Note: Additional fabric may be required for directional patterns, shrinkage, fabric nap, changes to the garment length or narrower usable widths.
Embroidery Thread Requirements
The decorative embroidery is an essential part of the coat's construction, so make sure to purchase enough suitable thread for your selected length.
Embroidery Tip: A contrasting thread makes the decorative stitch lines particularly visible. For example, combine soft blue wool with pink embroidery, natural wool with dark brown thread, or charcoal wool with ivory thread.
Important: The designer specifies embroidery thread in 8 m bundles. Ordinary fine machine-sewing thread should not be assumed to provide the same decorative appearance.
Additional Supplies & Tools
- Embroidery Thread: 80 m for short or 88 m for long
- Embroidery Needle: Suitable for the selected embroidery thread and wool fabric
- Sew-On Snaps: 5 sets for short or 7 sets for long
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Fabric scissors
- Pins suitable for thicker fabrics
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Optional fabric-marking chalk
- Paper scissors for the printed pattern
No Sewing Machine Required: The original pattern is assembled with hand embroidery. A sewing machine or serger is not needed for the construction described in the instructions.
Size Range & Fit
The Nelly Coat is available in seven women's sizes, XS–XXXL, with an intentionally relaxed silhouette.
Use your bust measurement as the primary guide when choosing a size and refer to the waist and hip measurements as well. Consider how you intend to layer the finished coat.
Hand-Embroidery Construction Overview
Step 1 – Prepare the Embroidery Thread:
Cut a suitable length of embroidery thread, thread the embroidery needle, double the thread and secure the end with a knot. The illustrated instructions explain how to form the decorative stitches and maintain even spacing.
Step 2 – Practice the Decorative Edge Stitch:
Work the needle through the fabric close to the edge, forming the characteristic looped stitch. Maintain consistent spacing without pulling the fabric edges together.
Step 3 – Secure Thread Ends:
When a thread length is nearly finished, secure it on the reverse side of the fabric. Begin the next length at the previous stopping point to maintain a continuous decorative seam.
Step 4 – Attach the Patch Pockets:
Position the pocket pieces according to the pattern markings. Hand-embroider the edges to attach each pocket to the front coat section, leaving the pocket opening accessible.
Step 5 – Attach the Pocket Flaps:
Embroider the flap edges, then position the flaps above the pockets and secure them with the same decorative stitching technique.
Step 6 – Join the Centre Back:
Overlap the back sections by the amount indicated in the instructions and join them using hand embroidery along the edge.
Step 7 – Connect the Shoulder Seams:
Position the front and back pieces with the prescribed overlap, then stitch through the fabric layers to form decorative shoulder seams.
Step 8 – Attach the Sleeves:
Align the sleeve pieces with the armhole notches, overlap the fabric as instructed and join the pieces with the decorative stitch.
Step 9 – Join Side and Sleeve Seams:
Overlap the appropriate pieces and hand-stitch the sleeve and side seams to complete the coat body.
Step 10 – Embroider the Collar and Outer Edges:
Finish the collar using the same decorative stitch, attach it to the neckline and embroider around the front opening, lower hem and sleeve edges.
Step 11 – Attach Snap Fasteners:
Sew the fasteners at the indicated positions, following the designer's instructions for securing the snap halves neatly to the fabric.
What's Included in the PDF Pattern?
- The Nelly Coat Digital PDF Sewing Pattern
- Seven Sizes: XS–XXXL
- Two Length Variations: Short & Long
- Front Coat Pattern Pieces
- Back Coat Pattern Pieces
- Sleeve Pattern Pieces
- Rounded Collar Pattern Piece
- Patch Pocket Pattern Pieces
- Pocket Flap Pattern Pieces
- A4 Print-at-Home PDF – 27 Pages
- Illustrated Sewing E-Book – 25 PDF Pages
- Complete Written Instructions in English, French and German
- Body Measurement Chart
- Fabric and Notions Requirements
- Fabric Cutting Layout
- Illustrated Hand-Embroidery Construction Instructions
- Included Seam Allowances – Generally 1 cm / 3/8" Unless Otherwise Indicated
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